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Humectol Vegetale PE

  • Date: 11/12/2024
  • Category: News Corporate

"NMF i.e. Natural Moisturizing Factor is one of the skin factors in charge of skin hydrationtogether with lipids, hydrolipidic film, stratum corneum and other organic substances like salts,amino acids and hyaluronic acid."

In “normal” skin the water content of the stratum corneum is around 15-20% when this value downs below 10% the skin becomes dry desquamated.

The ability of the stratum corneum to hold back water relies on hygroscopic substances that act as humectants known as NMF.

NMF is produced in the deepest cell layers of the stratum corneum by enzymatic degradation of the protein filaggrin.

The function of NMF is believed to be twofold:

  • first, by attracting water from the air, it keeps the stratum corneum supple and prevents cracking;
  • second, NMF creates a moist environment. which is a prerequisite for the functioning of hydrolytic enzymes involved in the desquamation process of the superficial keratinocyte.

NMF is comprised by an aminoacidic part derived from filaggrin degradation and by other aminoacidic derivatives like urocanoic acid, lactic acid, urea and sugars. [2]

Fig. 3

10Mansbridge et al: analysis of filaggrin

11Lynley et al: analysis of filaggrin. isolated from skin obtained at autopsy

12Tabachnick et al: skin scrapings from the trunk and extremities.

13Pratzel et al: tape stripping, extraction with HCl

14Koyama et al: extraction from the skin with H20

 [1]

Fig.3: Comparison of the molecular composition of human NMF as determined in various studies. Shown here are the common factors, normalized to 100 mol-%.

A skin with the optimal NMF concentration looks prettier because the NMF homeostatic equilibrium gives it theright moisturizationso it canlook healthy.

This “optimal concentration” could be affected by some variations with seasons or thermal shocks [3], in fact you can feel more easily a dry sensation in winter and in these moments, you can help the skin using a moisturizer.

ARDA NATURA propose you its unique formula of reconstructed NMF:

005478  HUMECTOL VEGETALE PE - Aqua, Glucose, Sorbitol, Sodium glutamate, Urea, Sodium PCA, Glycine, Lactic acid, Hydrolyzed Wheat protein, Panthenol

COMPOSITION

  • 50-70 Aqua
  • 10-20 Glucose
  • 5-15   Sorbitol
  • 5-15   Sodium glutamate
  • 1-10   Urea
  • 0.1-2  Sodium PCA
  • 0.1-2  Glycine
  • 0.1-2  Lactic acid
  • 0.1-2  Hydrolyzed Wheat protein
  • 0.1-1  Panthenol

FEATURES

Appereance: Liquid

Colour: from pale white to amber

Odour: faintly stinging and honey

Suggested use dose: 2%

BIBLIOGRAFY

[1] Nakagawa N, Sakai S, Matsumoto M, Yamada K, Nagano M, Yuki T, Sumida Y, Uchiwa H. Relationship between NMF (lactate and potassium) content and the physical properties of the stratum corneum in healthy subjects. J Invest Dermatol. 2004 Mar;122(3):755-63. doi: 10.1111/j.0022-202X.2004.22317.x. PMID: 15086563.

[2] Caspers PJ, Lucassen GW, Wolthuis R, Bruining HA, Puppels GJ. In vitro and in vivo Raman spectroscopy of human skin. Biospectroscopy. 1998;4(5 Suppl):S31-9. doi: 10.1002/(SICI)1520-6343(1998)4:5+3.0.CO;2-M. PMID: 9787912.

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